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How Are Barrier Islands Formed?

Take a look at Florida Google Maps. Do you see all those thin strips of land off the coast, which consequently contain our most famous beaches? Yup, those are barrier islands. Without them Florida would be a very different place. So, how did they come to be?

Formation Theories

Offshore Bar Theory

This theory holds that waves crashing into the shallows churns up the sand and begins building a sandbar. Over time, as more sand is added, the sandbar emerges from the sea and becomes an island. This was one of the earliest formation theories, published in 1845 by the Frenchman, Elie de Beaumont.

St. Pete Beach, circa 1964

Spit Accretion Theory

This theory says barrier islands are formed by sediment from longshore drift. The drift accumulates to form a spit—a strip of land, connected to the mainland, that juts out into the water. Then, subsequent storm waters would break the spit from the mainland, creating a barrier island. This theory was first introduced by American geologist, Grove Karl Gilbert, in 1885.

  1. Mainland Beach
  2. Ocean
  3. Longshore drift carrying sediment
  4. Waves crashing into the longshore drift, churning the sediment
  5. Swash (turbulent layer of water that washes up on the beach after a wave breaks, moving the sediment around.
  6. Backwash; the sediment is carried out, sometimes building up a spit
Diagram of a spit – it is theorized storm waters break the spit from the mainland, creating a barrier island.

Submergence Theory

This theory says water moves in on coastal ridges and separates them from the mainland. This theory was popularized by American geologist William John McGee (not to be confused with Travis McGee) in 1890.

It is debatable which theory holds true, as barrier island formation takes a very, very long time. But lately, scientists are beginning to think barrier islands are formed by a combination of the above theories. Hmmm…so what do you think?

Clearwater Beach, located on a barrier island, mid 1900s.

For further reading, check out Barrier Islands of the Florida Gulf Coast Peninsula.

Sources:

“Barrier Islands.” 2FLA. Retrieved 9 Sept. 13. http://www.2fla.com/barrier_islands.htm

“Barrier Islands and Barrier Beaches.” Glencoe. Retrieved 6 Sept. 13. <http://www.glencoe.com/sec/science/cgi-bin/splitwindow.cgi?top=http://www.glencoe.com/sec/science/top2.html&link=http://www.salemstate.edu/~lhanson/gls214/gls214_barrier_isl.htm>

Snyder, Richard A. “Flora and Fauna of Northwest Florida.” University of West Florida. 20 June 08. 6 Sept. 13. <http://www.uwf.edu/rsnyder/ffnwf/barrier/barrier.html>

(updated 09/22/2019)

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